A panel comprising Damir Doma - Creative Director, Damir Doma; Andrea Tenerani - Creative & Style Director, GQ Italy; John de Greef - Fashion Director and Journalist, Elsevier Weekblad; Tamu McPherson - Influencer; Simon Lock - Founder and CEO, ORDRE; and Fabrizio Servente - Global Strategy Advisor, The Woolmark Company selected L’HOMME ROUGE as the menswear winner.
David Laport was selected by Edward Buchanan - Creative Director, SANSOVINO6; Eugenia de la Torriente - Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Spain; Eugénie Trochu - Fashion Editor, vogue.fr; Linda Tol - Influencer; Irene van Lieshout - Buying Manager Womenswear and Lingerie - De Bijenkorf; and Tiffany Hsu - Buying Manager RTW, Mytheresa as the winner for the womenswear category.
Designer Jonatan Härngren of L’HOMME ROUGE took inspiration from the maritime lifestyle of the Swedish west coast and its tradition of boat building for his winning look. Härngren’s unique interpretation put wool in an urban contemporary context with fine woven wools offering a variety of functional features such as water repellency and anti-wrinkle alongside fishnet knitwear and work wear influences.
“For me, L’HOMME ROUGE’s buttoned-down shirt re-interpreted in 100% Merino wool and the subtle wrinkling effect that made the fabric look like the wrinkling of a ships sale made the entire concept well thought through and cohesive and it was executed beautifully,” explains Tamu McPherson.
“There were so many talented designers involved in the prize; we are really thankful to The Woolmark Company and the support of the award, it was a big deal to come here to Italy and to present to such an established panel and we are delighted to have won,” said John-Ruben Holtback, CEO of L’HOMME ROUGE.
Inspired by David Hockney’s painting ‘A Bigger Splash’, David Laport’s fascination with colour was translated into his winning look using a 100% Merino wool crepe from Südwolle. Combining couture like techniques with individual threads pulled out by hand and attached in double layers, with ready-to-wear sensibilities, Laport created a fresh and modern silhouette with Edward Buchanan, Creative Director, SANSOVINO6 adding that: “David beautifully used innovation and creativity to develop a realistic and chic concept, the use of wool with delicate detailing was superb and refreshing from first sight. I’m constantly asking myself what happened to the joy in fashion and here arrives David Laport to answer my question.”
David Laport commented “It was an unexpected win but I am honoured to be recognised for my craftsmanship and work in innovation. My goal was to create a fresh modern image of Merino wool and I am happy this was appreciated by the judging panel.”
Chosen from amongst the most promising fashion design talents from Europe, both winners gain a financial contribution of AU$70,000, plus the opportunity to compete in the prestigious international final. In addition, each winner will receive mentoring support from a global panel of experts along with being granted a Woolmark licence.
For the next six-to-seven months, the winning designers will be required to develop a capsule collection in Merino wool, to be showcased at an extraordinary event that will highlight the six menswear finalists and six womenswear finalists selected from across the globe.
The winners of the menswear and womenswear global finals will receive a further AU$200,000 to assist with fabric sourcing and marketing of their collection, as well as mentoring from industry experts. A third winner will also be selected at the global final as part of the newly introduced Innovation Award. In addition, the international winners will have the opportunity to have their collection distributed through the prize’s prestigious international retail partner network including Boon the Shop, S. Korea; Boutique 1, UAE; David Jones, Australia; De Bijenkorf, Amsterdam; Harvey Nichols, UK; Hudson’s Bay Company, Toronto; LECLAIREUR, Paris; mytheresa.com; ORDRE; and SSENSE.COM.
The Woolmark Company is pleased to have the support of makeup by MAC, TONI&GUY and ORDRE.com for this year’s regional events, along with multidisciplinary artist Jonathan Zawada who created the stunning trophies and decorative wares for each region event.