IWP2022  Landing
Video Poster


Welcome to PLAYSCAPE - a short film celebrating the art of play and this year’s International Woolmark Prize finalists. Directed by FKA twigs and creative directed by Zak Group with choreography by Juliano Nunes, here we present the final IWP2022 collection looks from Ahluwalia, EGONLAB, Jordan Dalah, MMUSOMAXWELL, Peter Do, RUI and Saul Nash. PLAYSCAPE was inspired by Isamu Noguchi’s vision of play as a creative catalyst and merges influence from fashion, art, dance, and music.

Come play.

wheelchair_dance_image_1
man_gown
building_block
excercise
wheelchair_dance_image_1


chariot




FINALISTS

FINALIST

Ahluwalia
United Kingdom

Ahluwalia was launched in 2018 by Priya Ahluwalia. The brand combines elements from founder Priya Ahluwalia’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots.

FINALIST

Egonlab
France

EGONLAB’s culture is the juxtaposition between the masculine and the feminine, modernity and historical know-how, romance and rebellion, sustainability and creativity.

FINALIST

Jordan Dalah
Australia

Jordan Dalah established his eponymous label after graduating from the womens wear course at Central St Martins in 2017.

FINALIST

MMUSOMAXWELL
South Africa

MMUSOMAXWELL is a fashion brand in Johannesburg South Africa, founded in 2016 by Maxwell Boko and Mmuso Potsane.

FINALIST

Peter Do
USA

Peter Do was collectively established in 2018, New York City by a group of long time friends.

FINALIST

Rui
China

Rui was founded by designed Rui Zhou. Rui is a brand that explores the duality of all things, the relations between matters and beings, always in a more philosophical way.

FINALIST

SAUL NASH
United Kingdom

Founded in 2018, Saul Nash is a luxury menswear brand existing to create contemporary sportswear and technical garments cut for the liberation of movement.

Ahluwalia was launched in 2018 by Priya Ahluwalia.

Ahluwalia combines elements from founder Priya Ahluwalia’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. Considering every aspect of the design process, Ahluwalia works with responsible sourcing and manufacturing techniques to ensure sustainability is at the forefront of the brand.

The label explores the potential of vintage and surplus clothing by giving existing material a new life through various methods of craftsmanship. This means that many Ahluwalia pieces are one of a kind.

With the namesake designer’s background being at the core of Ahluwalia, the brand incorporates traditional textile techniques to create an intersection between near and far, and part and present, making Ahluwalia both nostalgic and futuristic at the same time.

Inspired by the painted-on brush strokes featured in Bollywood and Nollywood film posters, this ombre’d, textured jacquard was created with Stephen Walters. It is made of 52% Silk, 48% Merino wool, developed with deadstock yarns collected from the mill.

  • 100% natural materials
  • Microplastic-free
  • Second-hand fabrics

Merging the ombre effects seen in Bollywood and Nollywood film posters with the graphics in film sets, a diamond check with a gradient has been developed to create this look. It is made from 100% Merino wool made from deadstock yarns at the mill.

  • 100% natural materials
  • Microplastic-free
  • Second-hand fabrics

These two jacquard patterns were inspired by traditional Ankara patterns found in Nigerian Clothing along with old-fashioned films. Both fabrics were created with natural herb-dyed Merino wool yarn from Tintoria Di Quaregna and 100% Merino wool from Zegna Baruffa.

  • 100% natural materials
  • Natural dye
  • Deadstock Merino wool yarn

The pattern of this fabric was inspired by set designs in Nollywood films. It is made of 57% Silk, 43% Merino wool, developed with deadstock yarns from the mill, Stephen Walters.

  • 100% natural materials
  • Microplastic-free
  • Second-hand fabrics

The black and white knit in this look is made with 100% Merino wool and Sirio glitter yarn sourced from Zegna Baruffa.

The green, blue and black jacquard pattern was inspired by traditional Ankara patterns, while the orange and red linear knit draws inspiration from old-fashioned films. Both fabrics were dyed using natural herbs from Tintoria Di Quaregna.

  • Natural dyes
  • Deadstock Merino wool yarn
  • Supply chain transparency

Vintage wool garments were sourced from the Ahluwalia Circulate platform, which crowd sources second-hand garments from Ahluwalia fans. The materials sourced had Woolmark certification and were second-hand. Beading embellishment is made from crustacean shell waste.

  • Second hand fabrics
  • Reducing landfill waste

EGONLAB’s culture is the juxtaposition between the masculine and the feminine, modernity and historical know-how, romance and rebellion, sustainability and creativity.

The brand’s tailored urban-punk DNA aims to dress all body shapes, all genders and ages. EGONLAB sees themselves as visual artists. Each collection wants to preserve the aesthetics that a work of art must provoke.

EGONLAB is a French emerging brand whose visual eye is deeply inspired by artistic movements which have greatly influenced our modern society. Merging fashion, music, motion design and mixed media art - EGONLAB is a one of kind brand and movement in itself, one who offers a fully immersive ad complete expertise to its consumers.

A modern interpretation of the Papal dress is reimagined in a long, quilted down jacket impregnated with streetwear codes. Symbolically strong with historical values reflect the notion that fashion is a universal art.

  • Small batch production
  • Supply chain transparency
  • 100% wool

Adelphite single-breasted jacket and Sami tailored trousers, paired with Wesley knitwear in green, all in 100% wool.

  • Small batch production
  • Supply chain transparency
  • 100% wool

Egonic long double-breasted jacket in black 100% wool.

  • Small batch production
  • Supply chain transparency
  • 100% wool

Euphoria skirt and Sami tailored trousers, both in black 100% wool

  • Small batch production
  • Supply chain transparency
  • 100% wool

Egonic double-breasted jacket, Euphoria skirt and Sami toilered trousers, all in rust 100% wool, with Wesley knitwear in green.

  • Small batch production
  • Supply chain transparency
  • 100% wool

Little side cape and Miranda skirt, in black 100% wool.

  • Small batch production
  • Supply chain transparency
  • 100% wool

Jordan Dalah established his eponymous label after graduating from the Womenswear course at Central Saint Martins in 2017. Dalah temporarily moved back to Sydney, where he is from, with the plan to develop part of the collection there and then return to London. However, after realising how much he enjoyed being a small independent designer in Sydney and feeling a sense of purpose and responsibility in using the local resources that are available, he stayed.

Jordan Dalah aims to bring historic codes of dressing into a contemporary space. Inspired by the dramatic silhouettes found in theatre costume, the young designer finds ways to balance this with the simplicity of everyday dress. It’s this relationship between theatricality and wearability that brings two worlds together to create new and more contemporary silhouettes.

This look was inspired by the natural tones of wool - the milky shades of off-white that become lighter and buttery depending on the percentage of wool.

  • 100% deadstock fabric

All fabrics in this look are sourced from deadstock Merino wool fabrics and yarns. The doorstopper hem uses wool top which is then cased in the same Merino wool jersey as the rest of the cut-out dress.

  • 100% deadstock fabric
  • 100% Natural
  • No Microplastics

All fabrics in this look are made of 100% deadstock wool, wool blends and Merino wool yarn. 61% Merino wool-silk blend and wool-rich wadding. The double-woven oversized puffed sleeves use 70% wool.

  • 100% deadstock fabric
  • Natural alternatives

This dress was inspired by the contrasting red marking of spray paint used to identify sheep in a paddock, mixed with the silhouettes synonymous with the Jordan Dalah brand.

  • 100% deadstock fabric
  • Natural alternatives

This 98% wool dropped-shoulder jacket features wool wadding for warmth without the weight. Next-to-skin softness is ensured for the hooded T-shirt, constructed form 94% Merino wool. 100% wool twill pants complete the look.

  • 100% deadstock fabric
  • Natural alternatives

This collection is not purely about the external fabrications, but also the internal volumes and layers that allow Jordan Dalah to make such radical and voluminous silhouettes. Wool wadding has been used to create the voluminous sleeves and door-stopper pants.

  • 100% deadstock fabric
  • Natural alternatives

MMUSOMAXWELL is a fashion brand based in Johannesburg South Africa, founded in 2016 by Maxwell Boko and Mmuso Potsane. The duo met through an internship program, having similar interest, views and aesthetic relating to design, they decided to join forces to strengthen their aesthetic and amplify the voice of their brand.

At the core, MMUSOMAXWELL is a ready-to-wear high-end womenswear brand which prides itself on ethically creating garments inspired by African heritage and contemporary culture with a particular emphasis on tailoring to complement the modern woman. Accentuating detail, practicality and wearability through a well-considered and sustainable design process that gives a sense of value and quality.

The felt material used to create this jacket was created with Stephanie Bentum textiles, a small hand-felting company based in Cape Town. The wool crotched circles on the crop top were made by a local community workshop for women called URBAN FLOCK.

  • Locally manufactured
  • Handmade
  • Microplastic-free

The wool gamp for the top in this look was hand woven by SETT and BEAT. They used a loom that is connected to a compressor and generates air to move the flying shuttle. This helps reduce the strain on the weaver’s arm/shoulders and prevent possible long-term damage.

  • Locally manufactured
  • Handmade
  • Microplastic-free

This honeycomb weave was developed in partnership with SETT & BEAT, a mother-daughter duo that creates handwoven textiles. The circles were crotched by URBAN FLOCK using wood and Merino wool.

  • Locally manufactured
  • Handmade
  • Made by artisans

This rib knit dress was knitted by VUYA KNITWEAR, a local knitwear manufacturer in South Africa.

  • Locally manufactured
  • Single origin

The wool gamp for this look was hand-woven by VUYA KNITWEAR, a local South African knitwear manufacturer. The yarn was sourced from a local textile company in Port Elizabeth, South Africa called SAMIL.

  • Locally manufactured
  • Handmade
  • Microplastic-free

The wool suiting for this look was imported from Kuzuri, a supplier in Japan. The screen-printed swing tag on the trousers are made from wool felt off-cuts. The suit was cut and assembled at the MMUSOMAXWELL studio.

  • 100% natural
  • Microplastic-free
  • Sustainable swing tags

PETER DO was collectively established in 2018, New York City by a group of long-time friends.

Each founder brings their distinct skills and voices to the label, generating lively and vital conversations that challenge the traditional structures of the industry. The brand has always put family firth through its commitment to creating a brand that is rooted in kindness and mutual respect.

The internal culture of PETER DO articulates a youthful approach to design that is founded on razor-sharp tailoring, architectural construction and honest textiles. Through a process of reduction, every detail is tested and refined to adapt to the complexities of women’s lives.

PETER DO is dedicated to creating new future in the fashion through thoughtful design.

Born in Biên Hòa, Vietnam, Do immigrated to the suburbs of Philadelphia at the age of 14. He studied Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City and went on to work in the RTW atelier at Céline and then at Derek Lam.

Wool coat with detachable lining and wool straight-leg pants. The entirely black collection draws focus on form and detail, and embodies the intrinsic soul of New York - practical, minimal, and irreverent.

  • 100% natural materials
  • Versatile, modular wardrobe
  • Tackles mindless consumption

Handkerchief trench coat, pleated shirt dress and tailored pant all in 100% wool, designed to be mixed-and-matched with other garments form the collection.

  • 100% wool
  • Versatile, modular wardrobe
  • Tackles mindless consumption

Oversized blazer and maxi knit skirt are part of the 22 garments in this collection which can be styled to make 365 looks to create a new and refreshing look each and every time.

  • 100% natural materials
  • Versatile, modular wardrobe
  • Tackles mindless consumption

Double-faced detachable coat and tailored pant. This collection was created with the idea that it would eliminate the constant need to expand our wardrobes and over-consuming.

  • 100% wool
  • Versatile, modular wardrobe
  • Tackles mindless consumption

Knit cape tunic, cut-out bodysuit and maxi pleated skirt. 100% wool Super 150'S fabric from Loro Piana for suiting and 100% extrafine Merino wool yarn from Zegna Baruffa for knitwear.

  • 100% wool
  • Versatile, modular wardrobe
  • Tackles mindless consumption

Oversized blazer, tuxedo blouse and sliced pleated skirt. 100% wool Super 150'S fabric from Loro Piana for suiting and 100% extrafine Merino wool yarn from Zegna Baruffa for knitwear.

  • 100% wool
  • Versatile, modular wardrobe
  • Tackles mindless consumption

Founded in 2018, Saul Nash is a luxury menswear brand existing to create contemporary sportswear and technical garments cut for the liberation of movement. Inspired by Saul’s background as a dancer and choreographer, the label often references Saul’s personal experience as a person of colour growing up in London.

The brand looks to performance and storytelling as a way to challenge universal preconceived ideas surrounding sportswear.

Handmade leaf-like white crochet dress using boiled wool yarn, offering a sense of flow with the perfect balance of exposed skin and fabric. With a vivid natural structure, felting the wool adds enhanced strength.

  • 100% wool
  • Minimising waste
  • Natural alternatives

Sheer, floor-length brown dress using 3D whole-garment knitting technology to minimise wastage. Purple tubular jacquard blanket, tightly linked together with Swarovski crystal pearls using RUI’s signature bead-linking technique.

  • 100% wool
  • Minimising waste
  • Natural alternatives

Blue halter top with silver pleated pants, paired with a long, double-faced weather-resistant coat. One side is smooth like a traditional outer-shell, while the other side is soft and brushed to offer next-to-skin comfort if needed. Using the innovative OptimTM technology, this double-weave, membrane-free fabric provides maximum insulation whilst minimising fabric weight.

  • 100% wool
  • Minimising waste
  • Natural alternatives

White asymmetrical top created using state-of-the-art 3D whole-garment knitting technology. Using extrafine Merino wool, this innovative knit allows for a delicate but durable construction.

  • 100% wool
  • Minimising waste
  • Natural alternatives

Tube top with British Wool shawl and wool pleated skirt in lilac push knitwear’s boundaries of form, silhouette, and surface. RUI's signature bead-linking technique recurs to connect the various wool fabrics.

  • 100% wool
  • Minimising waste
  • Natural alternatives

Spiral halter dress in sage green with semi-sheer top and stoking in violet. Here, RUI improves fine-gauge knits and upgrades 3D whole-garment seamless knits to optimise design, drape and fit.

  • 100% wool
  • Minimising waste
  • Natural alternatives

Founded in 2018, Saul Nash is a luxury menswear brand existing to create contemporary sportswear and technical garments cut for the liberation of movement. Inspired by Saul’s background as a dancer and choreographer, the label often references Saul’s personal experience as a person of colour growing up in London.

The brand looks to performance and storytelling as a way to challenge universal preconceived ideas surrounding sportswear.

Developed with D-house, the jacket in this look has been developed using a recycled membrane. Made and spun in Italy, the 100% Merino wool fabric lowers carbon footprint through traceability and is breathable, moisture wicking, thermo-regulating and antibacterial. The red compression wool knit was developed with Knitwear Lab, a breakthrough fabric development for Saul Nash. It uses 100% Merino wool in a way which combines two fabrics, providing varying functional prosperities without having to cut and sew the fabrics to add panels.

  • 100% Merino wool
  • Traceable
  • Woolmark certified

Developed with Knitwear Lab, this look provides a unique textile combining a sturdy double-faced jersey with integrated mesh holes for breathability. Yarns were sourced from Woolmark and RWS Certified supplier, Tollegno.

  • 100% Merino wool
  • Traceable
  • Biodegradable

Developed with Knitwear Lab, this fabric was a breakthrough for Saul Nash. It uses 100% Merino wool in a way which combines two fabrics, providing varying functional prosperities without having to cut and sew the fabrics to add panels.

  • 100% Merino wool
  • Responsibly dyed
  • Waste-free

This is a durable and resilient fabric which will provide you with a long-lasting, high-quality product. Through the inclusion of Cordura nylon-6, this wool look is able to function for an active lifestyle.

  • Uses deadstock
  • Reduced use of synthetics

Developed with Knitwear Lab, this look provides a unique textile combining jacquard with knitted airtex mesh in a new and innovative way, which allows for air flow throughout the garments. Jacquard created by waving a Guyanese flag over a projector.

  • 100% Merino wool
  • Responsibly dyed
  • Zero waste

The jacket in this look can be worn in multiple ways – it has quick release detachable sleeves and front zip for fast removal, press stud closures and a button on hood.

  • Versatility


fka_twigs_1
fka_twigs_1
isamu_nogochi


ISAMU NOGUCHI

Isamu Noguchi (1904–1988) was one of the 20th Century’s most important and critically acclaimed sculptors. From the 1930s, Noguchi conceived of playgrounds that offered a radical potential for physical and social interaction. He designed several “playscapes” where the public could directly interact with sculptures in ways typically not possible in a museum.

The 2022 International Woolmark Prize has been inspired by Noguchi’s ground-breaking multi-disciplinary work and the importance of play in creativity.

isamu_nogochi


ABOUT



The International Woolmark Prize celebrates outstanding fashion talents from across the globe who showcase the beauty and versatility of Australian Merino wool. It is the world’s most prestigious award for rising fashion stars. The International Woolmark Prize connects an astonishing list of industry legends, both past and present for a better tomorrow.

Discover the history of the prize